Edelrid Riot & Rage
Edelrid have recently produced some new ice tools, The Riot and and slightly more technical Rage. I have been testing these since spring 2012 and will be using them during the 2012/2013 Scottish Winter season.
Designed as an all round ice tool with technical mountaineering and ice climbing in mind. Edelrid say it's balanced design and hardened steel waterfall pick guarantees a secure placement on all types of ice. The ergonomically formed, comfortable double grip ensures excellent control and secure grip when climbing without wrist loops and a detachable hand rest protects the knuckles. With its modular construction, the Riot can be adapted to suit all routes. The perfect ice axe for a wide range of conditions. Available with a hammer and adze.
610g, 50cm Colour: Slate. More details on the Edelrid site.
Having used this tool quite a lot on the alps it truely is a good all rounder. For classic mountaineering it's really quite comfortable to hold the head of the axe and the narrow shaft slides easily down the back of a rucksac when you need to climb using your hands on that tricky mixed ground. The T rated pick has stood up to the punishment well despite having been in contact with plenty of granite, as well as snow and ice. The adze is also a particularly good shape, not too agressive making it idea for chopping stances and bollards etc but still useful enough for torquing in cracks.
The balance of a tool is a very personal thing, but the swing of the Riot is very good packing enough of a punch in all but the hardest alpine ice. The trend at the moment seems to be to go really light with tools, and for me I find the likes of the Petzl Quark are a little too light. Edelrid have filled the gap here making a slightly heavier tool that behaves well. This combined with a the narrow ergonomic drip makes it particularly good for those of us with small hands, resisting the tool enduced pump of wider shafts such as the DMM Fly. Top this off with a good finger rest (removable) and a great spike with a large clip hole and you are on to a winner.
As with most modern tools I have been using the Riot leashless, and it still climbs well. A full range of accessories are also available from Edelrid including a spinner leash, grip sticker, finger rest, alpine leashes, and clipper leashes.
- Good all round tool
- Comfortable to hold in the hand and swings well
- Really good for those of us with small hands
- The smooth aluminium shaft lacks grip for "daggering" and many people will want to customise with the addition of some tape or the "grip sticker" available from Edelrid.
- I want to keep an eye on the ergonomic grip as I suspect this might get some punishment when tapping crampons etc etc.
The Rage is an extreme tool for demanding mixed routes and steep ice. Its aggressively curved shaft provides additional clearance, while the balanced construction ensures accurate placement and penetration on rock and ice.
The ergonomically-designed double grip and 4 mm hardened steel pick provide optimal precision and control. The pick angle can be easily adjusted via the removable accelerator, a feature popular with extreme ice climbers. Thanks to its modular construction, the Rage can be adapted to suit all conditions.
605g (without head weights) 50cm Colour: Slate. More details on the Edelrid site.
The Rage is a great performance climbing tool, it's aggressive shape resulting in good holding power and stable hooks. It would be easy to dismiss it as a copy of the Petzl Nomic but you would quite simply be wrong! First up the shape is slightly more aggressive but slightly more mellow than the Petzl Ergo - plugging a gap in what is available at the moment.
Again the head is comfortable to hold and the burly spike makes the approach to your chosen route stress free should you need it. The thin shaft and head make reaching tricky hooks deep in cracks much easier, and the head set torques well in it's own right. The tool swings well and packs a good punch in hard ice even without the head weights (which can be easily removed). The tool will again suit people with small hands, as the ergonomic double grip handle is slightly on the small side and is cramped when wearing gloves.
This is the one negative point, as nearly every other tool on the market has an adjustable handle for different hand sizes.
The head system for the Rage is common to the Riot which means that an adze or hammer can be added for those who are keen not to venture into the mountains with out them!
- A great tool for performance mixed and ice climbing
- Narrow head and shaft idea for constricted hooking
- Can add Hammer/Adze
- Great swing
- Small double grip handle won't suit everybody